Wheel ScoutStep 1: Before you drive out
Most bad cars can be ruled out from your couch. Ask the seller for the VIN, or read the plate from the ad photos, and run it in the box above.
- Match the car to the ad. The decode shows the real year, trim, engine and drive. A "fully loaded V6" that decodes as a base four-cylinder is your first warning.
- Look at the recalls. Open safety recalls get fixed by the maker's dealer at no cost to you, but you want to know before you buy. Recall check.
- Read the title history. The $5 report shows salvage, flood and rebuilt brands, odometer readings and theft records. A brand changes what the car is worth, wherever it shows up. What each brand means.
Questions to ask the seller on the phone
- Is the title in your name, and is there a loan on the car?
- Has it been in an accident, or had major repairs?
- Any warning lights on the dash right now?
- Do you have service records?
- How many keys come with it?
- Can my mechanic look at it before I buy?
A seller who won't give the VIN, won't let a mechanic look, or says the title is "on the way" has answered the most important question already.
Step 2: The walk-around, engine off
Step 3: Start it cold
Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive. A warm engine hides hard starts, rattles and smoke.
- Watch the dash at key-on. The warning lights, the check engine light included, should all light up for a moment and then go out. A check engine light that never lights at all may have been disabled.
- Look at the exhaust. Blue-gray smoke means the engine burns oil. Thick white smoke that keeps coming after warm-up can mean coolant is burning.
- Listen. Knocking, ticking that doesn't fade, or squealing belts are all worth a question.
Step 4: The test drive checklist
- Drive at least 15 minutes, in town and on the highway.
- Brakes: the car should stop straight, with no grinding and no pulsing in the pedal.
- Transmission: shifts should be smooth and quick, with no slipping, flaring revs or hard clunks.
- Steering: the car should track straight with your hands light on the wheel. Vibration at highway speed points to tires, wheels or suspension.
- Everything that switches on: AC, heat, every window and lock, lights, wipers, the radio and the backup camera.
Step 5: Read the computer
Every car and light truck sold in the US since the 1996 model year has an OBD-II port under the dash, driver side. An inexpensive code reader plugged in there shows stored trouble codes and the emissions "readiness monitors." Several monitors showing not ready usually means codes were cleared or the battery was disconnected recently. That's how a check engine light gets hidden for a test drive, so ask why.
Step 6: The pre-purchase inspection
A mechanic you choose, not one the seller picks, puts the car on a lift and checks what you can't: leaks, the frame, the suspension, brake wear, the engine's condition. Ask the shop its price when you book. A seller with nothing to hide lets the car go to a shop; a seller who refuses has told you something.
Step 7: Paperwork and payment
| The title | It must be in the seller's name, matching their ID. If a lender is printed on it, you need the lender's release. A title signed by someone else and left blank for the buyer is an "open title," a sign you are buying from a middleman. |
|---|---|
| The odometer | Federal rules require the seller to write the mileage on the title at transfer. For model year 2011 and newer cars this applies until the car is 20 years old. |
| The bill of sale | Date, price, VIN, both names and signatures. Many states require one; it is your receipt either way. |
| From a dealer | The FTC's Used Car Rule makes dealers who sell more than five used cars a year post a Buyers Guide in the window saying whether the car has a warranty or is sold "as is." A sale by an owner isn't covered, so it is almost always as is. |
| Paying | A cashier's check made out at the seller's bank, or a meeting at your bank, beats a bag of cash. Never pay a deposit to hold a car you haven't seen. |
| Registering | Each state sets its own deadline and fees. Find yours on your state's plate lookup page. |
Buying a car on Facebook Marketplace
- Check the seller's profile. A brand-new profile, or a profile with several cars listed at once, is worth a question. People who sell cars for a living while posing as owners are called curbstoners.
- Know what Facebook covers. Facebook's Purchase Protection is for items bought through Facebook checkout. A car you pay for at a meet-up isn't covered, so the checks above are your protection.
- Use the photos. The plate is often readable in the pictures. Run it before you message.
- Meet somewhere public. Many police departments have marked safe exchange spots in their parking lots.
Buying a car on Craigslist
- Pick the right section. Craigslist splits cars and trucks into "by owner" and "by dealer." A dealer posting in the owner section is a curbstoning sign.
- Deal locally, in person. That is Craigslist's own advice. A seller who is "out of state" and wants to ship the car after payment is running a scam.
- Expect a relay email. Craigslist hides email addresses behind a relay. Get a phone number and talk before you drive anywhere.
Buying a car on OfferUp
- Read the badges. A TruYou badge means OfferUp verified the seller's identity. It says nothing about the car.
- Dealers list here too. Check whether the listing is from a dealer or from an owner before you compare prices.
- Keep the messages in the app. They are your record of what was promised.
The tricks that show up on all three sites are on the used car scams page.
The reports
Step one of the checklist. You see the car before you pay.
Basic history report
By VIN or license plate · official NMVTIS record · shows right away
- Salvage, junk, flood and rebuilt title brands
- Title history by state, with dates
- Odometer readings and rollback flags
- Total-loss records from insurers
- Theft check
- Market value for the car
Full vehicle history report
By VIN or license plate · Not instant: emailed or texted to you within two hours
- Every owner, how they used it (personal, lease, rental or fleet) and where
- Accidents and damage reports
- Title brands: salvage, junk, rebuilt, flood, fire, hail, lemon
- Odometer readings over time, checked for rollbacks
- Service and maintenance history
- Open recalls and common owner complaints for the model
Used car buying questions
What should I check when buying a used car?
In order: the VIN or plate (history, recalls, and that the car matches the ad), a walk-around with the engine off, a cold start, a 15-minute test drive, a code reader in the OBD-II port, an inspection by your own mechanic, and the title in the seller's name.
What questions should I ask when buying a used car?
Is the title in your name, and is there a loan on it? Has it had accidents or major repairs? Any warning lights? Do you have service records? How many keys? Can my mechanic inspect it?
Do I need a pre-purchase inspection?
It is the one check that sees what a report and a test drive can't: leaks, frame damage, worn suspension and the engine's real condition. Book a shop you choose, not one the seller picks.
How do I pay when buying a car from an owner?
A cashier's check made out at the seller's bank, or a meeting at your bank, is safer than cash. Never send a deposit through a payment app to hold a car you haven't seen.
Is it safe to buy a car on Facebook Marketplace?
It can be, if you check the car the same way you would anywhere else. Facebook's Purchase Protection covers checkout purchases, not cars paid for at a meet-up, so run the VIN, inspect the car and match the title to the seller's ID.
What paperwork do I need to buy a used car?
The title signed over to you with the odometer reading, a lender's release if a loan is listed, and a bill of sale. Then title and register it in your state before its deadline.
More ways to check a car
Buying guides
Find the deal, then check it.
Wheel Scout alerts you the moment an underpriced car posts on Marketplace, OfferUp or Craigslist near you, and runs the history right in the app.
The basic history report uses NMVTIS data from an approved NMVTIS data provider. NMVTIS records come from states, insurers and salvage yards; not every event is reported to it. Vehicle specs and recalls come from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Wheel Scout is not affiliated with any marketplace or government agency.