What an Utah plate lookup shows
A license plate points to one car. We turn the Utah plate into the car's 17-character VIN, show you the year, make and model, then read its history: salvage, flood and rebuilt brands, title history by state, odometer readings and theft records. You also see the factory specs and the safety recalls for that model year before you pay. What it never shows is the owner: the federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act keeps names and addresses in DMV records private, and we don't sell them.
What a Utah plate looks like, and the front-plate change
The Division of Motor Vehicles offers specialty and personalized designs on top of the standard plate. Type the characters without spaces and we find the car. One recent change matters when you look at a car for sale: the DMV states that a front license plate is no longer required, and it now mails a single plate. A Utah car with only a rear plate is normal now, not a sign that something was removed.
Plates belong to the seller. Unless the plates are sold with the vehicle, the seller takes them off at the sale; if they leave them on, they can be held liable for parking and traffic violations the buyer racks up. The seller also hands over the signed title, the current registration certificate and the current emission certificate if one applies, and then reports the sale to the DMV online through the Motor Vehicle Portal, by phone, or by mail (Form TC-502 works for that).
The buyer drives on a temporary permit from any DMV office, issued against the signed title or a bill of sale (Form TC-843) plus government ID. A standard permit costs $6 on top of the title and registration fees and taxes due, which you pay at the same time; the office sets its length based on your situation, generally from 96 hours to 60 days. A 96-hour in-transit permit is $2.50. Dealers issue 45-day permits on the cars they sell. The DMV asks that you not use the drive-through lanes for an ownership-transfer permit, and recommends appointments at the Taylorsville, South Valley, Provo, Farmington, Ogden and Hurricane offices.
Utah title brands: what the lookup can show
Our $5 report reads the NMVTIS record, the same national database the Utah DMV points buyers to. Utah's brands, and the rule that makes Utah different:
| Salvage | A car damaged by collision, flood or anything else where the cost to repair it for safe operation exceeds its fair market value, or one an insurer or another state declared salvage. Utah issues a branded title that reads Salvage. |
|---|---|
| Rebuilt/Restored | A salvage car that was repaired and returned to the road. Getting a rebuilt title is one of the few things in Utah that still requires a safety inspection. |
| Non-Repairable | A car with this brand, or with a Notice to Obtain a Salvage Brand on its record, can't be transferred through the DMV's online person-to-person title transfer. |
| Manufacturer Buyback Nonconforming Vehicle | A lemon-law car the maker took back. Every later seller must give the buyer a signed disclosure listing the VIN, prior title, odometer reading and the defects. |
Utah does not remove brands. The DMV says so flatly: a salvage brand stays even if the car had little or no damage, even after it is repaired, and always for a flood car. A title branded by another state cannot have its brand removed in Utah either, inspection or not. The DMV names two red flags for buyers: an out-of-state title issued recently, and a seller whose name is not on the title. Either one is a reason to slow down, check the history and walk away when in doubt.
Any seller of a salvage or rebuilt car, dealer or not, must give the buyer the state's written disclosure before negotiating the price; dealers also post it in the lower passenger-side corner of the windshield. Cars rebuilt from major parts of other cars are a separate category, called reconstructed: they need a VIN inspection on Form TC-661, an ownership statement (TC-569A), the titles to the donor vehicles, parts receipts and photos, and the title shows the year and make of what the car now looks like.
What a Utah title transfer costs
Buying from an individual, the seller collects no tax; the buyer pays it all at the DMV when titling and registering. The DMV's Fee Estimator on the Motor Vehicle Portal gives the exact total for your county; here are the published pieces.
| Title fee | $6. A duplicate title or a title correction is also $6. |
|---|---|
| Sales and use tax | The combined rate where the car will be registered, on the net purchase price from the bill of sale. The state's rate chart for October 2026 shows Salt Lake City at 8.45% and Provo and Ogden at 7.45%, with most Utah locations between 6.35% and 8.45% (a few resort areas run higher). Only a vehicle traded in as part of the same transaction reduces the taxable price. Utah has no exemption for sales between family members. Without a proper bill of sale the DMV taxes the car's fair market value; you can contest that with a certified appraisal from a licensed and bonded Utah dealer or an authorized insurance adjusting firm, at your expense. Under-reporting the price can bring an audit and a fraud penalty of 100% of the tax or $500, whichever is more. |
| Age-based uniform fee | Charged instead of property tax, once a year at purchase and each renewal: $150 for model years 2024 to 2026, $110 for 2021 to 2023, $80 for 2018 to 2020, $50 for 2015 to 2017, and $10 for 2014 and older. |
| Registration fee | Varies by vehicle type, weight and county; use the Fee Estimator. Add-ons the DMV lists: a $10 corridor fee in Salt Lake, Davis, Utah, Weber, Summit, Wasatch, Iron, Box Elder, Washington, Tooele and Morgan counties; an air pollution control fee of $3 in Salt Lake, Davis and Cache counties and $2 in Utah and Weber counties; a $2.50 driver education fee; and a $1 uninsured motorist identification fee. Electric cars pay either a per-mile road usage charge or a flat fee on top. |
| Temporary permit | $6 for a standard permit, $2.50 for a 96-hour in-transit permit. |
Utah forms and deadlines
| 48 hours | Utah law requires the seller to give you the title within 48 hours of the sale. The DMV's advice is simpler: get the title at the sale, or don't pay until you have it. |
|---|---|
| The title | Must match the car's make, model and VIN and be signed by the seller. Two owners joined by AND both sign; joined by OR, one signature is enough. No notary. Check that any lienholder printed on the title has signed off, and that the purchase date and price are filled in. If the seller lost a Utah title, Form TC-123 (duplicate title application) can both replace it and transfer it to you; a lost out-of-state title has to be replaced by that state first. |
| Form TC-843, Bill of Sale | Optional in form, essential in practice: it sets the taxable price. In ink, with both names and addresses, the VIN, the price, any trade-in and the net price. |
| Form TC-891, Odometer Disclosure | Signed by seller and buyer unless the title's own odometer section is used. Not needed once the car is 20 years old. |
| Form TC-656 | Application for Utah Title and Registration, filled in by the new owner, who brings government ID; it can be done at the DMV appointment or through the Person to Person Online Title Transfer. |
| Emissions paperwork | If you live in an emissions county and buy from a dealer in a county without testing, the dealer gives you a temporary permit and Form TC-820, and you have 10 days after getting home to get a compliance certificate. |
The temporary permit is what makes driving the car legal while the paperwork is finished, and all title and registration fees and taxes are due when the permit is issued.
Inspections in Utah
Safety: since January 1, 2018 a safety inspection is not required to register a passenger car in Utah. It is still required for a rebuilt salvage vehicle seeking a rebuilt title, for the first registration of a street-legal ATV, and for commercial vehicles.
Emissions: required in five counties: Salt Lake, Davis, Utah, Weber and Cache. In Salt Lake, Davis, Utah and Weber, cars less than six years old are tested every two years (even model years in even years, odd in odd); older cars from model year 1996 on are tested each year, and 1995 and older are exempt. Cache County skips cars less than six years old entirely and tests 1996 to 2020 models every other year. Utah County also tests 1998 to 2021 diesels. The test must be done within the two months before registration renewal and the station sends the result to the DMV electronically. Electric cars and motorcycles are exempt in every county.
For a buyer: the seller is supposed to hand over the current emission certificate. If there isn't one and you live in an emissions county, budget for a test before you can register. A car that lives in a non-emissions county has probably never been tested, so the check-engine light is on you to notice.
Before you meet a Utah seller
- Run the plate or VIN here first, before the deposit. Match the year, make, model and trim to the car.
- Match the VIN on the dash, the door sticker and the title, and make sure the title is in the seller's name.
- Look at the title's issue date and state. A recent out-of-state title is the DMV's own red flag for a washed brand, and Utah will not remove one.
- Get the title at the sale. The 48-hour law is on your side; the DMV says not to pay without it.
- Write a real bill of sale (TC-843). It is what the DMV taxes you on.
- Ask for the emission certificate if you live in Salt Lake, Davis, Utah, Weber or Cache County.
Where these Utah facts come from
Read on the state's own pages on October 31, 2026. Fees and rules change; the county tax office has the final word on the day you file.
- Utah DMV: buying and selling responsibilities
- Utah DMV: transfer a Utah title
- Utah DMV: Utah title requirements
- Utah DMV: salvage vehicles and branded titles
- Utah DMV: vehicle inspections (safety and emissions)
- Utah DMV: temporary permits
- Utah DMV: uniform fees (age-based)
- Utah DMV: summary of common fees
- Utah State Tax Commission: sales and use tax rates
- Utah DMV: license plates overview
- Utah DMV: registration taxes and fees (corridor, air pollution and other fees)
- Utah DMV: reconstructed vehicles
Look up a plate from another state
The reports
Works for Utah plates and every other state. You see the car before you pay.
Basic history report
By VIN or license plate · official NMVTIS record · shows right away
- Salvage, junk, flood and rebuilt title brands
- Title history by state, with dates
- Odometer readings and rollback flags
- Total-loss records from insurers
- Theft check
- Market value for the car
Full vehicle history report
By VIN or license plate · Not instant: emailed or texted to you within two hours
- Every owner, how they used it (personal, lease, rental or fleet) and where
- Accidents and damage reports
- Title brands: salvage, junk, rebuilt, flood, fire, hail, lemon
- Odometer readings over time, checked for rollbacks
- Service and maintenance history
- Open recalls and common owner complaints for the model
Utah license plate lookup questions
How do I look up a Utah license plate?
Type the plate above with Utah selected. We turn it into the car's VIN and show the year, make and model at no charge, then the $5 report shows its title brands, odometer readings, total-loss records and theft check.
How much does it cost to transfer a car title in Utah?
The title fee is $6. Add sales tax at your local combined rate on the price (Salt Lake City is 8.45%), the age-based uniform fee ($150 down to $10 depending on model year), the registration fee for your vehicle and county, and $6 for a temporary permit. The DMV's Fee Estimator gives the exact total.
Does Utah charge sales tax on a car bought from a person?
Yes. The seller doesn't collect it; you pay it at the DMV on the net price from the bill of sale, at the combined rate where you register. There is no family exemption, and only a same-transaction vehicle trade-in lowers the taxable amount.
Does Utah require a vehicle inspection?
No safety inspection for passenger cars since January 1, 2018. Emissions tests are required in Salt Lake, Davis, Utah, Weber and Cache counties, every two years for cars under six years old and yearly for older cars back to model year 1996 in the first four of those counties.
Can a salvage brand be removed from a Utah title?
No. Utah does not remove brands, even for minor damage or after a full repair, and never for a flood car. A brand from another state stays too. A repaired salvage car gets a Rebuilt/Restored brand after a safety inspection.
Does a Utah car need a front license plate?
Not anymore. The Utah DMV states that a front license plate is no longer required and now issues a single plate, so a Utah car with only a rear plate is normal.
Can I find the owner of a Utah plate?
No. The federal Driver's Privacy Protection Act keeps owners' names and addresses in DMV records private, and no legitimate plate lookup shows them. You see the car, not the person.
Who runs vehicle titles in Utah?
The Utah Division of Motor Vehicles, part of the Utah State Tax Commission, issues titles and plates and collects the sales tax. Transfers are done at DMV offices by appointment or through the Motor Vehicle Portal online.
More ways to check a car
Find the deal, then check it.
Wheel Scout alerts you the moment an underpriced car posts on Marketplace, OfferUp or Craigslist near you, and runs the history right in the app.
The basic history report uses NMVTIS data from an approved NMVTIS data provider. NMVTIS records come from states, insurers and salvage yards; not every event is reported to it. Vehicle specs and recalls come from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Wheel Scout is not affiliated with any marketplace or government agency. Wheel Scout is not affiliated with the Utah Division of Motor Vehicles (DMV).