What a salvage title means
A car gets a salvage title when it is damaged so badly that fixing it costs more than a set share of what it was worth, or when an insurer pays it out as a total loss. Crashes cause most of them; floods, fire, hail and theft recoveries cause the rest. In most states a salvage car can't be registered or driven until it's repaired and passes the state's rebuilt inspection.
What a rebuilt title means
A rebuilt title (some states say reconstructed, restored or prior salvage) goes on a salvage car that was repaired and passed the state's inspection. It can be registered, insured and driven. The brand never comes off: every future title for that car carries it, and the federal title record keeps it even if the car moves to another state.
When a car becomes salvage, state by state
Each state sets its own line. These are the thresholds from each state's own rules, read for our state plate pages. Click a state for its brands, forms and fees.
| Alabama | 75% or more of the car's fair retail value, settled as a total loss |
|---|---|
| Arkansas | 70% or more of average retail value, or water above the dashboard |
| Florida | 80% or more of the car's value |
| Iowa | More than 70% of fair market value, for a car worth $500 or more |
| Kansas | 75% or more of fair market value for a late-model car, or an insurer total loss |
| Louisiana | 75% or more of market value in an insurance total loss |
| Maryland | More than 75% of fair market value, or a car an insurer took in a claim |
| Michigan | 75% to less than 91% of pre-damage cash value |
| Missouri | More than 80% of fair market value, within six years after its model year |
| Nebraska | 75% or more of retail value, for a late-model car |
| Nevada | More than 65% of fair market value, not counting paint (orange title) |
| New Hampshire | 75% of fair market value, in its model year or the next four years |
| New York | More than 75% of pre-damage retail value |
| North Carolina | More than 75% of fair retail value, insurer or not |
| North Dakota | More than 75% of retail value |
| Oklahoma | More than 60% of fair market value, within its last ten model years |
| Oregon | An insurer total loss, or uninsured damage of 80% or more of retail value |
| Rhode Island | More than 75% of fair market value, under seven years old |
| South Carolina | An insurer total loss, or repairs above 75% of value |
| Tennessee | Repairs above 75% of retail value |
| Texas | Repairs that cost more than the car was worth before the damage |
| Virginia | Repairs above 75% of actual cash value, for a late-model car |
| West Virginia | 75% or more of market value in a national used car guide |
| Wisconsin | More than 70% of fair market value, under seven years old |
| Wyoming | An insurer total loss, or damage above 75% of actual retail cash value |
Other states rely on the insurer's total-loss decision or a formula that weighs repair cost plus salvage value against the car's value. That's why a car can be salvage in one state and not in the next, and why the title history across every state matters.
Is a rebuilt title car bad?
Not always. A light hail car rebuilt with care can be a fair buy at the right price. A car that was bent in a big crash and patched to pass an inspection is not. What to expect either way:
How to check if a car has a salvage or rebuilt title
- Run the VIN or plate. The $5 report reads NMVTIS, the federal title database states, insurers and salvage yards report to, so a brand from any reporting state shows.
- Read the paper title. Look for the words salvage, rebuilt, reconstructed or flood on its face.
- Ask for the rebuild file. A real rebuild comes with receipts for the parts, the state inspection paperwork and often photos.
- Get an inspection. A body shop can tell good structural repair from bad.
The reports
Both reports show salvage, rebuilt and flood brands. You see the car before you pay.
Basic history report
By VIN or license plate · official NMVTIS record · shows right away
- Salvage, junk, flood and rebuilt title brands
- Title history by state, with dates
- Odometer readings and rollback flags
- Total-loss records from insurers
- Theft check
- Market value for the car
Full vehicle history report
By VIN or license plate · Not instant: emailed or texted to you within two hours
- Every owner, how they used it (personal, lease, rental or fleet) and where
- Accidents and damage reports
- Title brands: salvage, junk, rebuilt, flood, fire, hail, lemon
- Odometer readings over time, checked for rollbacks
- Service and maintenance history
- Open recalls and common owner complaints for the model
Salvage and rebuilt title questions
What's the difference between a salvage and a rebuilt title?
Salvage means the car was written off and can't be driven yet. Rebuilt means a salvage car was repaired and passed a state inspection, so it can be registered and driven again. The brand stays either way.
Does a rebuilt title mean the car was totaled?
Yes. A car only gets a rebuilt title after it was branded salvage, which in most states means an insurer declared it a total loss or the damage passed the state's threshold.
Can you insure a rebuilt title car?
Usually for liability. Full coverage depends on the insurer; some decline it, others ask for photos and an inspection. Get a quote before you buy.
Can you trade in a rebuilt title car?
Many dealers will, for much less than a clean-title car, and some won't take it at all.
Can a salvage title car be driven?
In most states, no. It has to be repaired and pass the state's rebuilt or salvage inspection before it can be registered.
How do I check if a car has a salvage title?
Type its VIN or plate above. The $5 report shows salvage, rebuilt, junk and flood brands from the federal title record, plus every state the car was titled in.
More ways to check a car
Buying guides
Find the deal, then check it.
Wheel Scout alerts you the moment an underpriced car posts on Marketplace, OfferUp or Craigslist near you, and runs the history right in the app.
The basic history report uses NMVTIS data from an approved NMVTIS data provider. NMVTIS records come from states, insurers and salvage yards; not every event is reported to it. Vehicle specs and recalls come from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Wheel Scout is not affiliated with any marketplace or government agency.